Some prefer 95 simply because you can switch between them faster, since fewer are available. For me the lens hood is a must, mainly for the reason that it enables me to grip the X100F the way that is comfortable for me. To track subjects across a smaller portion of the frame, but not just a single point, use Zone and change its size to suit your needs by pressing in the joystick and then turning the rear dial to change the size of your focusing zone. Here is the part of the user’s manual relevant to this setup: http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100f/menu_setup/button-dial_setting/index.html#iso_dial_setting_a. I rarely use AF-C, only because my specific needs don’t call for it very often. PL provides various digital photography news, reviews, articles, tips, tutorials and guides to photographers of all levels, By Spencer Cox 16 CommentsLast Updated On August 2, 2019. shadows 0, highlights 0, sharpening 0, etc) and use Lightroom to apply any simple changes I want. There is a slight difference. Thank for sharing! Here, I’ll explain every one of the Fuji X100F menu settings and give my personal recommendation for how to set it optimally. Save Org Image: Off. It lets you select the interval between shots and the total number of photos. In a world of expensive camera accessories, they make a nice product at very cost effective pricing. To discover what the Fujifilm X100F is capable of, and to experiment with its settings, I played for a couple of weeks with film simulation and factory provided presets. Congratulations on your new camera. I do shoot manual for many things, but on the street I want to think about my camera as little as possible (maybe just adding some exposure compensation or, as mentioned above, adjusting which Auto ISO setting I use depending on how much ambient light I have). For 100% silent operation, turn this off and enable electronic shutter only (from “Shutter Type” under the Shooting Setting menu). In regard to the mechanical versus electronic shutter it is really just a matter of understanding the limitations of electronic shutters. nice article. The camera takes photos with the mechanical leaf shutter until your shutter speed is too fast for that to be possible (faster than 1/4000 second), beyond which the X100F switches to electronic shutter. When on, this magnifies your focusing area to make it easier to focus manually each time you turn the lens’s focusing ring. Ian are you sure one can “set up the front dial for adjusting the ISO.” I can’t seem find this option in the button/dial settings. If you use the up button, you just set up CS1 and CS7, and you keep the 1 or 2 click efficiency. My X100F is a pre-productional model directly from Fujifilm, so I haven’t looked at pricing or availability anywhere yet. Thank for providing a starting point for the many and varied settings. Thanks very much. This maintains a minimum shutter speed of 1/60th, which helps keep the ISO down while still exposing the scene properly. Output is expressed in fractions of full power, from 1/1 to 1/64. Thanks for Auto Iso settings suggestions , will try those. Function (Fn) Setting: Lets you assign custom functions to the five FN buttons, as well as the AEL/AFL button and the rear dial. I prefer changing it to AF Lock so that you can use it to autofocus without locking exposure. This is another personal preference; I was raised a Nikon shooter, so I prefer clockwise. As previously mentioned I set the Aperture to f/5.6 to f/11, depending on the amount of light I have. I decided that for just the social outings on this trip the X100 should be along. If I am working with very specific lighting though I will sometimes use spot metering too. The electronic shutter is a wonderful thing, you just need to know when not to use it. Velvia 50 was… You need to put the ISO dial into “A”, and you need to go into the Button Menu and tell the camera to use the front command dial for the ISO. It is very quick and easy for me to observe a scene, decide what I want to do with the light and adjust the compensation with my right thumb as I am bringing the camera up to my eye. Surely in Lightroom or in my case MacPhun, software, I could create a template to mimic the above filters? I have one question though. Physically, the dials are a bit thin and feel kind of flimsy. I usually shoot in single shot mode, but I’m not afraid to use burst mode and select the best frame if the situation calls for it. My camera stays in mechanical shutter mode probably 99% percent of the time. So I talk about composition, light and how I set my shots up during my landscape photography vlogs but I very rarely mention how I actually use the Fuji X-T2 and X-T3. Street Photography Workshop Update & a new bonus for participants! I used the front command dial (on the front of the camera below the shutter button) on older cameras like the X-T2, X-E3, and X100F. So how do you judge the X100F in terms of picking the right combination of ISO and shutter speed? I don’t normally pre order but I sold my X100T late last summer before any price drop, thinking the next generation wasn’t too far off then, of course, it was put off until now! This way, you can choose specific JPEG settings (say, Fuji Velvia simulation) and see that preview in live view even though you are shooting RAW and that setting doesn’t affect the RAW photo. It gives you more flexibility than Auto, which only allows you to select one of the Auto Settings you created earlier. I also change another menu option – AE/AF-L Lock Mode – to On/Off Switch. When I scaled back my DSLR gear, I still needed some interchangeable lens flexibility, thus the XP2 and it’s slowly expanding kit. Edit/Save Quick Menu: A very useful option to adjust the layout and content of the Quick Menu (accessed by pressing the Q button). When you have the right light you really don’t need to do a lot of post. At that point, isn’t it more useful to set ISO in that range and then change the shutter speed manually depending on the scene? p.s. Large Indicators Display Setting: Pick which settings and icons will be increased in size when you have Large Indicators Mode turned on. I normally shoot in full manual mode and in the shop found the shutter dial quite stiff to turn if using this. A tool allows someone to carry out a particular function. I've shot a lot of Velvia film over the years. The X100 series from Fuji has long been dear to my heart. Custom Setting: Choose the information displayed in the optical viewfinder and the EVF/rear LCD. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I believe what you are experiencing is the lag imposed when you first wake up the camera. It seems like a lot when it is all written out, but in the field it comes down to the occasional adjustment to Aperture, Exposure Compensation, or the Auto-ISO setting as needed for exposure control, occasionally switching back and forth between Classic Chrome and Acros depending on how I see a scene, and much more rarely using another feature like wifi or the Digital Tele-Converter. Edit/Save Custom Setting: Allows you to create combinations of JPEG-only settings, such as sharpness, noise reduction, dynamic range, and so on, to form a particular look. This process takes a little while to complete, usually in the 1/10th to 1/15th range, which means any movement in your frame during the capture can cause distortions to appear in your image and any lights that cycle can cause banding to appear. The three main things you really need – aperture, ISO, and shutter speed – are right on top of the camera. Why do you need 3 Auto ISO settings that have the same 200-3200 ISO range? In these settings I am not in a rush. Like very much my Fuji cameras (X100f and Xt-20) and prefer them when traveling light. People speak very highly of the filters such as Classic Chrome and especially Acros. I usually wifi photos to my phone at some point through the day, either to mail to someone or to review and edit while I’m sitting down for lunch. Every time I post a photo, like the one at the top of this article, I get asked where I got the camera strap from. For a start, the 35mm field of view is not the best focal length for portraits (unless you're aiming for environmental portraits of course). Control Ring Setting: Off. As we get started I think it is important to discuss my approach to shooting on the streets, which differs from other work that I do. This chooses whether the exposure is locked at the prior metered exposure or by metering via a set of pre-flashes. I shoot in RAW plus Fine jpeg. AF-C Priority Selection: Release, same reason. And in playback mode, push in this dial to instantly jump to a highly magnified view. Top left vertical dial: Adjust diopter to make viewfinder clearer and tailored to your eyes. My sunrise / sunset / blue hour shots are taken locked down on a tripod, and I usually use off camera lighting when shooting portraits (which means my camera settings rarely change once they are dialled in). Thanks for the detailed reply, that makes perfect sense, it seemed a slower process to me particularly if you decided you wanted to switch from 1/250 to 1/500 as that would involve going through the menus to change the min shutter speed as opposed to just changing shutter speed from the dial but I had not considered about the automatic increase in shutter speed with your approach. The thing is though, batteries are cheap. Fuji X cameras have a lot of technology under the hood but once you have settings established you rarely have to go back to the menus for anything. This gives a subtle amount of sharpening that removes the softness from a raw file which is what you want. I've been asked a lot since the announcement for my favourite Fujifilm X100F Settings and so I thought I'd make a video overview of them. I used these same settings on my X100F prior to the XT3 with excellent results as well, so give it a spin on your own camera. The X100F lets you choose different file names for sRGB and Adobe RGB images. ISO Dial Setting (A): Command, which switches all ISO adjustments to the front command dial any time “A” is selected on the top ISO dial. In post, I sometimes see something different I’d like to manipulate. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. I tend to keep my aperture between f/5.6 to f/11, depending on how much light is available in the environment I am shooting in. Image Size: Grayed-out (because of shooting only RAW); when shooting JPEG pick “L 3:2” for maximum quality, Film Simulation: Standard (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Grain Effect: Off (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Dynamic Range: DR 100% (doesn’t affect RAW photo), White Balance: Auto (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Highlight Tone: 0 (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Shadow Tone: 0 (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Noise Reduction: 0 (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Long Exposure Noise Reduction: For long exposures eight seconds or longer, the camera will take two photos: one of the actual scene, and another with the shutter curtain closed that is simply a “dark frame.” The dark frame will still have some, Color Space: Adobe RGB (doesn’t affect RAW photo). This can be set up to control the ISO, the Exposure Compensation, or both. Focus Ring: The direction you rotate the focus ring, as viewed from behind the camera, to focus toward infinity. In order to do this I need to be able to quickly switch my drive mode to single and also to switch to shooting Fine jpeg only (because the Digital Tele-Converter won’t work in RAW or burst mode). The FUJIFILM X100F features the 24.3MP X-Trans CMOS III, an APS-C sensor with no low-pass filter boasting the highest performance in the history of the X Series, as well as the X-Processor Pro high-speed image processing engine to deliver outstanding color reproduction and gradation of tones in both stills and videos with high ISO sensitivity and low noise. The setting I use for sharpening is an amount around 100, Radius of 0.8, and Detail of 0. There are so many ways to customize a camera like the Fuji X100F. I use my X100F strictly for street photography, and shoot in S-Mode. Face/Eye Detection Settings: Depends upon your subject, but you have plenty of options here. Thanks for this post. Street for me is very left brain… I want to focus on the art and trust my camera to get it right. It is easy for someone who comes across this camera for the first time to be a bit confused by all the options. I didn’t notice you have a function button set up for this. There is a slightly faster way to choose between film simulations. Thanks. Regarding the highlight tone,shadow and sharpness and noise reduction settings are these something to experiment with when using Acros R. I think each of us should experiment with things like highlight, shadow, etc. View fullsize. This is probably a really stupid question so apologies up front if the answer is glaringly obvious to a non noob but I am trying to understand why this is a good approach over using manual (setting aperture and shutter speed) but still having auto iso to control the ISO setting. Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area: On, since it means that your metering system (when using spot metering) bases its reading upon the focus point, not a small point in the center of your frame. “Max Sensitivity” is the highest ISO value that the X100F will use, no matter what. . Great – I just got the camera and I’m amazed by it. MF Assist: This one is down to personal preference in terms of which visual aids you prefer when focusing manually. These recommendations are very helpful for every owner of this great camera. But I notice that some of the images I have taken are not straight, or aligned if that makes sense? Hi Ian, great write up, very much looking forward to the release. Your photos custom file names to start lowering your shutter speed including a.... Lens shoot-out with a fellow Fujifilm shooter ( my first ) camera fixed-lens camera line use... And also the fujifilm x100f settings for landscape of just using the mechanical shutter as you down! 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